Strobist is a technique of shooting by releasing a flash of the camera body and then placed as needed and connected with triger signal . Cheaper and more efficient because it simply use AA batteries so it can be used in locations without a power outlet shooting .
Not surprisingly , the technique is increasingly popular in the past 2 to 3 years as digital technology has been very supportive . Moreover, the result is no less than the light ' real ' big and heavy .
First , of buying equipment that is the main support flash , triger and lightstand ( or flash shoe holder only, and connected to the tripod ) . While umbrella , softbox and flash the second , third and so is still an option , depending on the needs of the photo.
Flash is required to make a light engineering , both as a primary source of support and light when shooting is done under the scorching sun . The extent necessary depending flash photo needs .
Trigger is needed to connect the signal from the flash to the camera body has been placed away from the camera . In some brands of cameras , special lighters that had planted unnecessary additional triger . Should read the manual first, if your camera is mounted triger or not .
Lighstand ( pillar of lamps ) . Actually , this pole can be ignored when finding a place to put substitutes that allow flash as desired , such as in the cupboard or table .
However , in practice , a place that allows this difficult to find . The solution , ask a friend to held up flash . Even if alone , would not want to use lighstand . Well , just to be safe , it's better to have at least one lighstand for maximum results
In addition , there are other support equipment such as umbrella , softbox or flash the second , third and so on . Support equipment is negligible or it is necessary depending on the needs of the photo.
Second , setting the camera is placed on the alias M Manual mode . Why ? due to the manual mode , the intensity of light entering the camera ( diaphragm ) and the speed of the camera can be played to the fullest . As a result , it can produce effects different shadows and matched with the needs .
For ISO , better to use a low ISO between 100 to 400 . Not because of the high ISO is not good , but a low ISO is ISO ' ideal ' for a photo using the measured lighting . For example in the first photo , I used ISO 200 , f/11 and speed of 1/160 . I set the flash power in 1/16 so that is not too tight and just make a little light on the surface of the face .
And for the quality of the image , multiply using size Large ( L ) or in some cases , there is no harm in using RAW . Using the best resolution in the camera enables maximum results and minimize shortages ' image data ' generated .
Third , the placement of the light ( flash ) . Standard grip with light photographing the main light is placed over the forehead rather menyerong like the sun about 40 degrees . The placement of the shadows to produce the most natural and the most popular used
But once again the basic guide . In practice , the main lights can be placed anywhere as needed photography . Can be placed over the frontal , at the side or from behind the subject . All based on the needs and imagination of the photographer wanted to make a photo look like.
Fourth , setting up the lights . In some brands , there are automatic and manual flash mode . Well , it's good to use Manual mode on the flash setting . Therefore , the light intensity can be easily controlled and adjusted to the needs .
In Manual mode , there are at least two noteworthy things . The first power ( power ) light . Marked with a count of 1/1 , 1/2 , 1/4 , 1/8 , 1/16 , 1/32 , 1/64 and 1/128 . Count 1/1 , the brightest light power . While the power of 1/128 , is the most dim . By playing around with this matter , light and shadow can be controlled according to the needs of photographers .
Second , in addition to the intensity of the scattered light power . Typically using numbers 24mm , 28mm , 35mm , 50mm , 70mm , and so on . Simply put , this figure serves to control whether the light will spread widely or narrowly ( focus on one point only) . At 24mm figures , widely scattered light . Opposite the 70mm figures , the light distribution is narrower and at a certain point .
Well , counting the lamp power and light distribution is influenced also by the distance of the light to the subject photographed . Also influenced by the extent of indoor shooting . Count-count rather complicated and uses a specific formula .
But simply put , everything can be adjusted in the field to test the lighting first. Also simple trial error when starting shooting .
With 4 short steps are then supported a strong imagination of the photographer , the photo will strobist maximum . Moreover, supported by flavor (taste ) are slick and communicative visual language , then the picture that you generate will be much more interesting .
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